Sunday, July 29, 2018

Of Donuts & Dead Ends: Ghosts Of Chillicothe's Missing Main Street

Crispie Creme Donut Shop at the corner of Bridge and Second Sts., is a Chillicothe, Ohio tradition. So much so, that many people don't realize their business history predates the Chillicothe connection by over two decades. Founded in Mulberry, Kansas, in 1929 by ancestors of the current owners, the Renison family, Crispie Creme made several moves through the midwest before reaching Ohio in the 1940s, settling in Portsmouth, where Chillicothe's near identical sister store remains today. Chillicothe's first Crispie Creme location opened for business in March, 1953. Since then, Crispie Creme, known as "the one with the Cs instead of the Ks" to differentiate from the nationally known Krispy Kreme franchise (founded by a one-time business associate of the original company), has been synonymous with Chillicothe, much like "the Mead" and "Tecumseh!"


That first, nearly forgotten Crispie Creme location was at 264 E. Main St. If you want to visit that historic spot, well, you can't...at least not safely. You see, the building at 264 E. Main St. was at the end of Bridge Street. The dead end. Another interesting fact that many people living here may not know is that Bridge St. once ended at Main St. There was no "North" or "South." Mainly still a residential thoroughfare, it was not yet the shopping and wheeler-dealing mecca it is today. Traveling south on Bridge St. from the Scioto River, to go any farther south than Main St., one had little choice but to turn right and then make another left onto Hickory, Mulberry or Paint St., the latter being the main route through the southern terminus of the city limits.

The postwar national prosperity that allowed for the development of the interstate highway system, also sparked a boom of expansion and development for the city of Chillicothe. The period between 1951-1954 saw the construction of three new grade schools: Tiffin, Worthington, and Mt. Logan; the demolition of the long-obsolete Eastern School (where Speedway, Executive Inn, and McDonald's stand today); the widening of U.S. 23 south; and the expansion of Bridge St. The construction of the atomic plant at Portsmouth around the same time was the impetus for much of this development. Extending Bridge St. to meet up with the improved 23 South would allow for a straighter shot between the new plant and the state capital in Columbus (via Ohio's first capital), and would allow easier access to the new Tiffin Elementary and the existing Mead and Chilpaco plants as a bonus.

Naturally, extending Bridge Street from Main to 23 meant razing everything in its path. Besides relocating families from their homes on adjacent streets, it meant relocating the occupants of several buildings which had stood along E. Main St. for decades. In 1953, when Crispie Creme came to Chillicothe, its neighbors included, going eastward, Orland Ratcliff Motors, Herlihy Moving & Storage, and the aptly named eatery, Bridge End Lunch. Few photos survive of the "dead end" section of Main St., but one grainy photo, taken on a rainy, blustery looking day circa 1951 shows how it used to be.


The story of Chillicothe's first Crispie Creme starts with the Ohio House Hotel, operated by one Eugene O'Callaghan, a prominent member of Chillicothe's sizable Irish-American population, in the early part of the 19th century. A photo of the Ohio House, taken in 1876, shows a basic two-story structure of light brick, with shuttered windows and two entryways, one presumably to the separate "taproom" that was typical of 19th century hotels. The facade differs considerably from what is shown in that evocative photo from the mid-20th century. In approximately 1894, O'Callaghan died, and his family sold the hotel. The buyer was Henry Hydell, a grocer who had been in the business a decade, beginning at the age of 25 when he took over the grocery of Philip Seward at the corner of Water and Hickory Sts.


In the early 1880s, two prominent businessmen, John H. Putnam and Reinhard Wissler (the latter a member of the Wissler Brewery family), purchased land along different halves of the east side of Bridge St. starting at Main, and began building houses and business structures in the area. Putnam constructed a large store at the Main and Bridge, as well as a number of two story brick homes. Wissler, in particular, was enamored of French architecture and his structures were three-story edifices with mansard roofs. One in particular, at the northeast corner of Bridge and Second Sts., a combined store room and residence not too dissimilar to Putnam's building at Main and Bridge, figures into our story at two different points in history.

The occupant of Wissler's commercial-residential structure at Bridge and Second was John Higley, a relative of Wissler by marriage, who lived with his wife and two children in the upstairs apartment, and ran a grocery in the downstairs store. In 1888, Higley sold his stake in the store to Mr. Hydell, who moved his base of operations from Water and Hickory St. to Bridge and Second, and also lived in the apartment vacated by the Higleys. It was in this second location that he became the first grocer in Chillicothe to include an in-house meat department, adding a new level of convenience to his customers. He also operated his own slaughterhouse east of town. Five years later came his move to the former Ohio House. Hydell converted it from a hotel to two large storerooms and a spacious upstairs apartment. This may also be the time period in which the building was remodeled into its later appearance.

Henry Hydell's innovations, as well as his longevity in the E. Main St. location, earned him the title of "the dean of Chillicothe grocers." In September, 1936, Scioto Gazette publisher E.S. Wenis "cheerfully" inducted Hydell Grocery into the paper's 50 Year Club, "as an institution of quality, stability, and service to the public." During his tenure on E. Main St., Hydell's family grew to three sons and two daughters. Sons Clarence F. and Francis Hydell were assisting in daily operation of the store by the 1930s. In August, 1939, Henry Hydell retired, and Clarence took over as proprietor. His first executive decision was to remodel the store, moving the meat department into the grocery section, and rent out the storeroom at 266 E. Main St.


The former Hydell meat department was briefly occupied by the Cycle Shop which moved from N. Walnut St. in 1941. In May, 1943, John D. Herlihy Sr., founder of Herlihy Moving & Storage, who had occupied 268 and 270 E. Main St., divested himself of a related tire sales business, and moved his company offices into the space, where it remained until the buildings were demolished. In November, 1945, Bridge End Lunch opened in the previous Herlihy office at 268 E. Main (which was an A&P Grocery store in the mid-1920s, in direct competition to Hydell's), where it remained until the end of 1952. A little over a year later, "the dean of Chillicothe grocers," Henry Hydell, passed away at the age of 85.

Then, in November, 1947, it was announced abruptly that delivery service by Hydell's Grocery would be discontinued, and on December 2, 1947, the first of several ads ran advertising a 20% discount on all grocery stock, as well as a sale on modern grocery equipment. There was no formal announcement that the store would be closing, nor have I found any reason for Hydell's Grocery going out of business. Then in early January, 1948, C&J Electric Shop ran ads saying "We Are Now Open In Our NEW LOCATION At 264 E. Main St." with no further apparent fanfare. C&J Electric Shop was there until October 1951, when Model Dry Cleaners opened their third location in the spot.


In early 1953, Crispie Creme finally enters the picture, opening somewhere around March, when Chillicothe Telephone Co. installed a new line in their name at 264 E. Main St. An article from April 16, 1953, states that the city Planning Commission had approved the construction of their sign over the sidewalk at that address. Otherwise, the soon-to-be-legendary shop seems to have opened to no apparent fanfare. Could it be because Chillicothe already had the similarly named Dixie Cream Donut Shop, which opened in 1947 and was currently in the old fire station on N. Mulberry St.? :-) Crispie Creme's first year in Chillicothe indeed seems to have been low-key with one exception.

On December 30, 1953, Clarence Hydell, who still owned the property at 264-66 E. Main St., ran an ad for an "Auction Sale Of Household Goods" to be held on January 2. The announcement began "As the state is taking my building for highway purposes..." not just a little bitterly. A small blurb in "Amelia Hydell's Column" of December 23 had quietly announced that "Crispy Cream" had been removed by Herlihy (somewhat ironically) from its current address to High and Water Sts. (across from St. Peter's Church). In January, 1954, the state highway department began running legal notices in the Gazette, soliciting bids for the demolition of a long list of properties that had been acquired by the state, including the former Hydell Grocery. In February, it was announced that local contractor Harold Corkwell had made the winning $45 bid on the property. The former A&P/Herlihy/Bridge End property with its attached structures went to a contractor from The Plains for $150.50, while the winning bid on Herlihy's garage at 270 E. Main was $10.


By springtime, all traces of the buildings were gone, and the construction of S. Bridge St./U.S. 23 was in full swing. Herlihy Moving & Storage relocated their main operations to N. Walnut St. Model Dry Cleaners maintained their previous locations. C&J Electric was now on W. Second St. Of all the businesses that occupied 264-270 E. Main St. in the first half of the 1950s, C&J Electric (on W. Main St. today) and Herlihy (who relocated for good to Marietta Rd. in 1970) are still going strong. Traffic whizzes along the stretch of Bridge St. that didn't even exist 65 years ago, few motorists aware of the history that was wiped out by Atomic Age progress.

As for Crispie Creme, there were a few rough patches along the road to legendary status. In March of 1954, the shop was granted a one-year permit to remain in business at the High and Water location, termed a hardship case as being a relatively young business forced to relocate after less than a year. In October 1957, it was reported that the shop had overstayed its permit by two years, and the city Board Of Appeals was compelled to ask them to vacate the address ASAP. Owner James Renison announced his intention to plead for an extension, having been unable to find another location. The Board obviously relented as Crispie Creme remained at High and Water into the early 1960s. Thus it was to everyone's chagrin when, in the early morning hours of May 6, 1961, a semi-truck from Hennis Freight Lines barrelled through the front of the shop after colliding with a convertible at the intersection, destroying a display case and a donut glazer, and causing considerable damage to the building. The shop was up and running, on a limited basis, by the following week.


After several years of legal pressures, the Renison family built a thoroughly modern, state-of-the-art new location of their own, which opened in the spring of 1965, and thrives to this day. It's one of my favorite places on earth, personally speaking. In a final bit of historical irony, the current Crispie Creme Donut Shop, which first occupied the former Hydell Grocery, is at the northeast corner of Bridge and Second Sts., built on the site of Henry's previous store.


(Below are views of the approximate area of 264-270 E. Main St. in July 1954, and a current view from Google Maps. The two story brick building in these, photos, now occupied by Carlisle Barber Shop, can be seen at far left in the 1951 view near the beginning of the article)

Sunday, February 12, 2017

The Day Swede Came To Town

Anyone who pays attention to my Facebook page knows I'm a history buff, especially when it comes to my hometown of Chillicothe, Ohio. I love picking out details from old photographs, using them as a springboard for research to find out more of the history behind those photographs.

The first two photos here are from an album Chip Daniels posted on Facebook a few years back of photos taken by his father, a photographer for Mead Paper. They were identified simply as "Paint St. Carnival, Early '60s." There was an air of mystery about the photos among some of the commenters on the post, who only remembered circuses and carnivals being held in Yoctangee Park, either on the site of the current city pool, or the parking lot next to the baseball diamond where carnivals are still held today. Nobody could remember one right on one of the main downtown streets, yet here was photographic proof.

Capt. Carl "Swede" Johnson in his "steel arena" on Chillicothe's N. Paint St., 1964.
One detail stood out originally, the name "Swede Johnson" painted on the side of the trailer by the animal cages. Some research on the Internet turned up the name of Carl "Swede" Johnson, who was an animal trainer for the soon-to-be-defunct Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus and various other circuses over 55 years. He was also a circus clown, a member of the Clown Hall Of Fame, in fact. As a trainer he was known for his humane techniques which involved no whips, pistols, or other scare tactics. After retirement, he lived in Punta Gorda, FL, until his death in the early 1970s. The research turned up a couple of the black and white photos shown here.
Recently, Chip reposted his dad's photos, and I decided to see if I could dig up more information about how Swede Johnson's animal act ended up Chillicothe, Ohio, in the early '60s. I came across another photo of Johnson that I hadn't previously seen, in the Florida State University archive. The photo, dated July 3, 1959, shows Johnson guiding a lion on a "high wire" in his act at the Paul A. Miller Circus. Another clue! So I Googled the name. There's not a whole lot about these small-time circuses online, but I got several hits, including one for an appearance by the Miller Circus at Ridgeview Shopping Center, in Lorain County, Ohio, not far from Cleveland in 1960.
Courtesy of the Harrison Sayre Circus Collection, Florida State University.
It turns out that the Miller Circus toured the Midwest in the 1960s, usually promoting shopping centers by appearing in their parking lots. The Ridgeview stop was one such promotion. The poster, shown below, lists among the featured performers "Capt. 'Hunky' Johnson and Capt. 'Swede' Johnson and Lions performing in outdoor steel arena." The poster also mentions "kiddie rides," some of which appear in other photos of the Chillicothe stop.
Ad for the Paul A. Miller Circus appearance at Ridgeview Shopping Center, from the Lorain (OH) Journal, 1960.
Courtesy of "Brady's Lorain County Nostalgia."
I'm now fairly certain that it's the Paul A. Miller Circus that visited Chillicothe, Ohio in the early '60s...but when? This time around, another "blink and you'll miss it" detail caught my eye. In the photos from Chip's collection, Johnson's "steel arena" is set up directly in front of the Warner Hotel building which still stands in downtown Chillicothe (the hotel itself closed in 1963). Visible on the awning of the hotel building is a banner which reads "Ross County Democratic Headquarters." Those signs only pop up in election years. In the 1960s there were three -- 1960, 1964, and 1968.

Daniels told me that his father left Mead Paper in 1966, and agreed with me that 1963/1964 seems the most likely time period for these photos (he also remembers going to a speech in town by Sen. Barry Goldwater, who lost to Lyndon B. Johnson -- no relation to Hunky or Swede, I would imagine -- in that year's election). He says 1960 would be too early -- he was only 3, too young, he feels to remember the circus as much as he does.

Unidentified circus act, N. Paint St. Chillicothe, 1964.
In a 1960 "Billboard" article about the Miller Circus that mentions the Ridgeview Shopping Center appearance, it is stated that Miller had two units touring, each with 12 rides, concessions and the circus, presented on a stage with a "big top style background." One unit, then in its fourth season, was "tied in with a shopping center promotion under the name of 'Easy Living,' sponsored by Red Book magazine." It's a bit of a mystery why the Miller Circus would have appeared in downtown Chillicothe in 1963 or 1964 when it was mainly presented in shopping malls. At the time, Chillicothe had one shopping mall, Central Center, which opened in 1956. A second mall, Zane Plaza, opened in 1964, and would presumably have been under construction when the circus came to town.
The Paul A. Miller Circus also included various "kiddie rides."
Downtown Chillicothe's status as the town's commerce center had not yet been usurped by the malls, although by 1968 there was an attempt to lure shoppers back by turning this very stretch of N. Paint St. into a "pedestrian mall" with flower beds, playground equipment and fountains. The experiment was short-lived. Curiously, the pedestrian mall was considered little more than a nuisance among motorists and the very business owners the "Paint St. Mall" was supposed to benefit. But that event was still several years in the future, with the Miller Circus being an even more temporary downtown "disruption," much like today's annual Feast Of The Flowering Moon.
Chances are we are unlikely to see a spectacle quite like this on the streets of Chillicothe again. Swede Johnson's long time employer Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus will soon end its 146-year reign as "The Greatest Show On Earth," while smaller circuses have long been falling out of favor with animal rights activists.

A few more notes on Carl "Swede" Johnson: He was born in Denmark in 1903. Shortly after arriving in the United States, he took the first job he could find -- as a rodeo clown. He then became a circus clown, performing as a clown with various shows, while also developing his animal training skills. Besides his affiliation with the Ringling Bros. and Paul Miller Circuses, he also was connected with Bradley & Benson Circus & Rodeo, C.R. Montgomery Circus, Elks Circus, Shrine Circus, Biller Brothers, Rogers Brothers, and Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus. Johnson retired to Punta Gorda, Florida, where he died Mar. 3, 1977. He is buried at Indian Spring Cemetery in Punta Gorda.


(BLOGGER'S NOTE: This article was originally a Facebook post on my own page, fleshed out from comments I made on Chip's post on "You Know You're From Chillicothe, Ohio When..." following my research into Swede Johnson. Many thanks go to the online archive of FSU, Brady's Lorain County Nostalgia, Clown Hall Of Fame, Findagrave.com, and of course, Chip Daniels)


Carl "Swede" Johnson, animal trainer. (Courtesy of clownpictures.info)
Carl "Swede" Johnson, Clown Hall Of Fame member, 1903-1977.
(Courtesy of clownpictures.info)